Perhaps this is true of other places, but I only know my hometown’s version of it: in Seattle, or pretty much anywhere in southwest Washington, Mount Rainier is frequently known simply as The Mountain. Yes, we call it by its full name, or by its ‘patrinomial’ ID of Rainier, and sometimes even by its graceful older name Tahoma. But its dominance of the skyline when visible, and of the ethos–the spirit–of western Washington thanks to its potent influences on geography and geological and meteorological character, not to mention the power it has to wipe out half the state should it decide to wake from its long dormancy, all mean that whether in plain view or not it has a hold on the hearts and minds of the locals like no other single force, natural or otherwise.
Sometimes when flying in to SeaTac airport the mountain is not only clearly visible but brilliantly etched and jutting boldly through the clouds, if any. SeaTac International Airport sits between Seattle and Tacoma, and the zone so called for its equidistance was finally officially given that insipid and cheap-sounding name some years ago–don’t get me started on it–but it’s well worth flying to a place with any ridiculous name you could conjure if and when you get the right weather, enough sunlight, and an accommodating pilot who appreciates Mt. Rainier’s beauty enough to tip a wing to the mountain’s flank and give the passengers a clearer view.
Truth be told, we’ve seen precious little of the mountain on our current visit. It’s been pretty overcast much of the time, including when we flew in, so yes, the photos here are from other times. I’ve known of visitors who left disbelieving we even have a Mount Rainier, never having glimpsed that big white heap of sugar in weeks and weeks of waiting. The fabled wet weather of the Northwest can indeed curtain off our magnificent totem from view for seemingly interminable times and make us long to be reminded ourselves that it wasn’t all an hallucination or a passion-fueled fantasy. Even when visible, Rainier very often sports a ‘hat’ or veil that keeps a little mystery close by; being large enough to create its own weather, this geological behemoth seems to be quite often crowned with a companion cloud that rarely moves very far off or disappears entirely.
Despite all of this hide-and-seek, the imminent danger we all know quite well as natives makes us bolt, strap, glue and otherwise thoughtfully position many of our tall or breakable belongings as though to protect them from a petulant child, because we’ve been through enough minor earthquake shakers in our lives to know preparedness pays. Still, while rainy Washington makes floods a real and frequent possibility, if that dormant volcano in our midst gives the really big belch geologists tell us is historically overdue, whatever isn’t swept off in the violent and instantaneous post-blast lahars [pyroclastic mudflows] that will likely submerge the surrounding valleys (the primary lahar channel of which was home to my family for most of my youth) will be treated pretty much like a snow-globe being handled by a curious Godzilla. Game over.
So we have a certain amount of respect for The Mountain, never mind it being such a fixture in our existence. No, I don’t know anyone who’s ever grown jaded about seeing it, no matter how long he or she has lived in its shade. This is not your typical mountain, looking pretty but losing its allure gradually as you realize you’re rather close and it’s stopped looming higher. It’s set in a fairly impressive range of mountains yet is so much bigger and more prominent than the rest that once the sky clears you just plain can’t miss it, and that sight quickly makes its mark on you. In snow-time, its blue-white flanks rise up to pierce the sky and look so sharply delineated you think you could stick your hand out and grab a fistful of super-vanilla ice cream from just behind that house over there across the street. As the snow melts, streaks made of billions of evergreens and a few exposed rocky prominences reflect sun and sky and passing clouds’ shadows in a changing array of colors that tease you with seeming first as near as your own breath and then suddenly as far distant as a too-sweet dream. Driving there can nearly drive you mad: you look to your left and it’s sitting right across the closest pasture; round the curve and it has shot away as far as the moon; over the next hill, in an instant it almost seems you’ll crash into the bank of snow just ahead of your front bumper.
Eventually you get onto the foot of Mount Rainier, yes you do, and you realize it’s so huge that you can still have a view of the peak that seems remarkably like the distant view of the whole that you had from an hour and a half’s drive away. The flora and fauna of this glorious bump on the earth have changed relatively little in millennia, and just being in their midst for an afternoon’s traipse along the trails makes you think both that your own sort might go on forever and that if the mountain is really going to blow, perhaps its taking you along for the ride in instant smithereens might not be altogether the worst thing. That’s how magical The Mountain is, even after all of these years of living at its foot. It might kill me, but if it does it will have fed my spirits incredibly well for a very long time indeed. That mountain there, she may keep her chapeau of a cloud-let coquettishly low on her brow for long periods of time, but when she finally does doff it, Holy Mother of Gleaming Glaciers, she’s a beauty.
Thank you, child of Seattle, for the stupendous, fabulous views of The Mountain of Washington State…
You are very welcome. She deserves to be savored!
Absolutely breathtaking. And I love the story you weaved in about the mount itself.
Many thanks, my friend! It’s a very easy subject on which to get carried away. 🙂
I miss my friends in and from Seattle… Love the image at dusk. Taken from Magnolia?
Hey, Darling, we miss you too!!! Hope it won’t be too long until the next reconnect, either in Chicago or Seattle or DFW!
The dusky shot is from Ruston Way, near one of the old piers that’s been incorporated into the walking park along there. Pretty evening, no? 🙂
Love you,
Kath
A splendid ode to a natural beauty Kathryn! I understand what you write about – that no matter how many times you see something so magnificent you neve rtire of the view, it is always different, and always beautiful. you know I’m biaised when it comes to the grand peaks – but this really is stunning!
Yes, you know extremely well the power mountains can have over us. I’m glad you enjoyed this little share after all of the alpine beauty you’ve shared with the rest of us so many times!
xoxo
What Claire said…which is almost identical to what I was going to say 😉
So, as the Solstice approaches, what time is sunset up there?
Sunset is a little after nine and there was still rosy glow over the ocean by about 10:15. Wonderful. Lovely. Ahhh, summertime! 🙂
These shots are beautiful. I’ll be in Seattle in August and am planning to visit Mount Hood. I’m going to check about visiting this too if possible.
Oh, I am SO glad for you! Hood is spectacular (and the Lodge is a work of art!). The whole area is gorgeous. If you get up to Rainier, there are many wonderful short, easy hikes from all the entrances to the Park. We have especially loved many walks out of Longmire (including the Longmire meadow itself), the Silver Falls trail out of Ohanapecosh–which I love also for its mellifluous name!–and the main trails up from the Sunrise visitor’s center. So many lovely places. You will have a beautiful time no matter where you get to go. And since there are lots and lots of great eateries full of fabulous noodles, you won’t go hungry along the way. Have FUN!
xo
Kathryn
I’ve never been to the NorthWest so I’ve not seen The Mountain. Still, all I know who have been and who have seen come back singing its praises. By all accounts, not the least of which being your own, it is a sight to behold. Your photos, Kathryn, are proof.
You will, of course, need to remedy the gap in your travel life. 😀 This can only begin to whet your appetite for it, dear John.
The Olympic Peninsular is my favorite place in the world.
I admit that in addition to its great pleasures, this trip has also made me think longingly of many, many other beloved things about being on the coast!