Foodie Tuesday: Leave No Deliciousness Unloved

almond-crusted grapefruit bars

With a tweak-tweak here and a tweak-tweak there . . .

I rarely make any little edible thing without messing around with the recipe (classic or otherwise). And I married a supertaster. Folks, you know what that means. Endless potential drama–dare I say it, a recipe for disaster?

Happily, it means instead tremendous room for growth and creativity on both our parts. I think after fifteen-plus years of togetherness we’ve managed a lot of dandy discoveries. And you know what? We’ve eaten well along the way.

The gift of massive quantities of papillae–tastebuds, those squiggly little fellas that make the mouth sing with salty, sweet, bitter, sour, and umami joy–makes one vulnerable in all of the good and bad ways possible to the information glut those gluttonous sensory detectors are zapping through one’s system. As an ordinary non-supertasting superhero, I find it hard to imagine surviving the experience of having extra helpings of sensation when eating divinely delicious stuff. When food and drink are superlative, it’s already so intensely exciting that I can be overwhelmed and left speechless and limp and hardly able to conceive of the prospect of time itself re-starting. All else falls into shade.

That this can happen not only over a masterfully executed and presented breast of pheasant with chanterelles served over handmade pappardelle in champagne cream but just as well and deeply felt over a tasty tuna salad sandwich is part of the beauty of experiencing food as more than mere physical sustenance.

That the great and the humble have equal power over gustatory happiness means that all of you out there who are under the supertaster spell are even less immune to whatever punch is packed by lunch. No surprise, then, that kids born with an extraordinary supply of papillae are quick to respond with particular strength of feeling, and very often of will, to what is put on their plates and in their little rosebud mouths. The bitterness in cruciferous vegetables is more potent to such an eater than to others and may taste downright poisonous. Sour cream? I don’t think so, Grandma! Aromatics alone can drive a poor supertaster around the bend.

So I’ve got me a guy that in his youth wouldn’t eat eggs unless prepared exactly to his specifications, very possibly because only under those ideal circumstances were the sulfurous undertones of the seemingly dainty egg tolerably controlled to bypass his micro-detectors. Like his father before him (also, I suspect, a supertaster), he is averse to the presence–nay, immune to the charms–of raw or strong onions or garlic, vinegar, grapefruit juice, buttermilk, a multitude of herbs, and ripened cheeses. But being a naturally hungry boy and an enthusiastic appreciator of good food, he learned many ways in which those things can be tamed and massaged into behaving in a friendlier, more mellow manner.

Thus I have a so-called picky eater on my hands, but one who despite his aversion to a wide range of strong sensory aspects of food still adores many kinds of highly flavored cuisines and a number of dishes one mightn’t expect: a long list of Mexican and Indian foods are high on the favorites list, sushi a longed-for treat, and Thai curries like mother’s milk to him. Since we live surrounded by equally hungry friends and family and a wealth of dangerously fabulous cooks, there’s no doubt we will continue to discover both the boundaries or limits of our respective foodly tolerance and the wonders of what lies on the other side when we manage to navigate our way across and over those edges.

Around here, asking what’s for dinner is nothing short of an invitation to examine one’s entire existential paradigm–that of the moment, at least. Excuse me, please. I think I hear the kitchen calling me.

PS–The bar cookies above are almond-crusted grapefruit bars, made simply by taking a favorite lemon bar recipe and substituting pink grapefruit juice for the lemon and almond “flour” (ground almonds) for the wheat flour. My spouse had no interest in them, of course. But our guests and neighbors and I all found them quite tolerable!

If I am What I Eat, I Must REALLY be Something

farmer's market photo

Let the slobbering begin . . .

Since I’m a dedicated eater with fairly catholic tastes, I guess I can reasonably unveil some of my internecine gastronomical brain-waves on what better-equipped food experts now celebrate online as Foodie Tuesday. Prepare yourself, darlings. I’m just gonna hand you a bunch of snapshots of the inside of my skull when food is on my mind. Yeah, basically, always.

foodie ramblings 1

Scared yet? Onward, soldiers.

I often ruminate on menus and recipes–but very seldom in any formal way; the closest I come is pretty much when there’s a dinner gathering ahead and I try to plan just enough to be able to make an actual and sufficiently cogent grocery run. Now, as far as I’m concerned, recipes are made to be broken. Nobody need ask whether I’m a pastry master or baking genius. You want me to weigh and measure what?? Honey, I love ya, but I’m just not very good at adhering to, especially, strict rules. So most of the time I tend to work in more forgiving parts of the kitchen. Good thing I managed to surround myself with forgiving eaters, too. Not that I don’t ever bake, but you can be sure that I’m still monkeying with the contents if I can’t mess with the science.

foodie ramblings 2

Don't say I didn't warn you . . .

Yeah, when I’m not in the midst of the act of eating I tend to be thinking about it. A lot.

foodie ramblings 3

. . . and this is just a tiny sampling . . . an amuse bouche . . .

Once my brain starts going like a salad spinner, it’s too late. I’m concocting dishes and combinations of foods and compiling lists of ways to use a particular ingredient and, oh, all of a sudden I’m snapping out of a reverie with unseemly drool pooling on the front of my shirt and the ghostly scent of beurre noisette drifting dreamily in my nostrils.

foodie ramblings 4

. . . and furthermore . . .

I get these unseemly food urges and imaginings with such frequency that I can only comfort my would-be-gigantic self with the thought that I am far from alone. There are enough foodie blogs in the eater-net to choke a horse, for one thing. Many of them also guilty of making me think of food all the more, pitiless knife-wielding creatures that they are. What I’ve learned thus far is that, while it’s not a genius idea to indulge every one of the dining-related wishes and fantasies I have (nor could I ever afford it), enough of the pleasure relating to food and eating comes from all of the prefatory delights of imagining, plotting and planning for the preparation and consumption of food when the right time comes.

foodie ramblings 5

Sometimes, when I'm lucky, the mere immersion in extravagant imaginings of food and eating will put off my having to indulge them for a moment or two--during which I will not, of course, refrain from further imaginings . . .

. . . and those so often do lead to, oh yeah, eating, then further fabulations, then more eating, and so on and so forth. Yep, a vicious circle, a psycho-cycle. What’s a poor obsessive to do?

foodie ramblings 6

Things can get into seriously crazy territory when I start getting my food freak on . . .

I do understand that other people have survived this particular ailment ever since the concept of food as anything other than straight-up survival existed. So I know I can manage to overcome my most over-the-top urges just enough to not die of from my own excesses. If I really, really work at it. If I stop rhapsodizing inwardly or, okay, just tone it down on occasion. Oh, who am I kidding, not gonna happen.

foodie ramblings 7

Eat, dream, eat, dream, eat, eat, dream . . .

. . . and while I’m being semi-honest about this with you, that’s just while I’m awake. Asleep, I can achieve yet more monstrously grandiose food frolics as well. And why not. One of the sweetest miracles of creation, food. Not having it, or enough of it: hell. Having enough to share, both physically and in spirit (talk, shared secret family recipes, foodie blogs, secret kitchen handshakes, MFK Fisher and Jeffrey Steingarten and Calvin Trillin) is sheer heaven. Even if it makes my stomach growl indelicately just thinking about it. Even if it makes my poor head spin just a bit more.

foodie ramblings 7

Oh, the gears are ticking over now. Internal cafeteria-tumbler on full blast! Run! Save yourselves!

Do you think I’ll ever fully recover from this stuff? No, of course not, and why should I. Going bananas over bananas is not necessarily a bad thing (although with the potential collapse of certain long-hybridized banana crops it might become a rarer thing). I admit to applying my father’s excellent philosophy of Anything Worth Doing is Worth Overdoing with equal abandon not just to other parts of my life but also to any and everything food-related. Sue me. But get the process-server to bring me a fork and a couple of extra serviettes with that, please. And just a pinch of Maldon Sea Salt. Oh, and while you’re over there between the pantry and the fridge . . .

foodie ramblings 8

. . . wouldn't that be even better with a little bit of chocolate ice cream?

Sorry, I was channeling my late Grandpa there, the one who knew that fourteen freshly baked cookies were worth the punishing for the pilfering, who understood that nearly any edible could be improved by more of it or perhaps just by the addition of a modest scoop of butterfat-loaded ice cream, and most of all who reveled in sharing the delights of the table with all the silly grandkids and anyone else interested in squeezing around the table with us. And this, naturellement, just tends to confirm my conviction that my love of food is yet another love that springs from the joy of connectedness. I’m looking for foods that belong with each other on a plate, in hand or in a recipe, and far more than that I’m always on the hunt for the beautiful connectedness between people that springs from sharing life over that same food. For what we are about to receive, I am always truly thankful.

mixed fresh fruits

May life always be as sweet as the best treasures of the table . . .

The Feast that Never Ends

Thanks to our kind friend Joelle, I met fellow blogger XB tonight over dinner. Her blog, ‘In Search of My Moveable Feast’ at http://www.xiaobonestler.com/, is a wonderful melange of food and culture spiced with her delightful wit. I’m also reminded by both blog-mate and the friends around the dinner table tonight–composer hosting, saxophonist and pianist and conductor gathered around the table with me as we all enjoyed the meal and conversation–that shared love of culture and other naturally crazy things is an endless banquet of marvels and wonders.

ratatouille ingredients + blackboard text

To dine is divine, and among friends the conviviality never ends . . .

Is the conversation inspired by the food? The food by the gathering? The gathering by the conversation?

Of course all three happen. In the case of a tableau like tonight’s at table, there can be so many possible tangents to pursue. Avidly swapping bits of life-story over splendid bowls of creamy cool beet soup with yogurt leads to thoughts of yet other meals, stories, and gatherings. Discovering common interests with newly met friends over a glass of wine: how can that not lead to further tales (tall and otherwise) and onward to inspire more the pleasure of dolmas and Greek salad, these then becoming sustenance for other hungers for knowledge and enjoyment?

It is, clearly, an infinite table, this one where strangers sit down to untasted treats and rise up as well-filled and newly minted fellow sojourners. Art is the avenue where all of these fine riches intersect: thought and music and speech and history and language and hope and hilarity and the sharing of ideas in inspiring new ways.

I don’t doubt that the cats, from their respective corners, were moderately bemused by our various enthusiasms, but I for one found in all of it great nourishment.

Mr. Mussorgsky Makes Good Medicine

Since I mentioned the mystical powers of restoration held by food and music and art, I suppose I should fill you in on a couple of details. I will begin with my youth, when a day home from school on account of germ infestation was made tolerable by only two things: Mom’s serious talent for coddling, and the range of treats she willingly provided in order to speed the healing of an underage invalid. While I was swooning dramatically on the living room couch, bereft of sisters (they had the nerve to flounce off to school without a thought for keeping me company in my miserable state), I was given the choice between some prized medical treatments to speed my cure.

My selections were usually as follows: macaroni and cheese, preferably neon orange and from a royal blue box–this was long before I’d discovered the delights of Amy Sedaris-inspired artery-destroying deliciousness of the sort I make nowadays–accompanied or followed by Green Jello. Apparently, there is always room for it, because after ginger ale and soda crackers, that was the first thing I craved, and it had to be green, though I don’t know exactly why, even after my body was in a state of complete food rejection.

Meanwhile, there needed to be distractions to help me survive the long hours of my desertion and recuperation. The best possible, and this will date me among all of you tender readers who have to GoogleLP” to know that it doesn’t only refer to Licensed Practitioners, was to listen to favorites from among my parents’ record collection. When I was well enough, it was a real delight to lie on the floor with my sisters in a darkened living room and listen to the recording of Basil Rathbone reading Edgar Allan Poe stories, but sans strength and sisters both, it would be music I chose.

High on the list would be David Oistrakh playing ‘The Swan of Tuonela‘ or perhaps Dvorak‘s evocative ‘New World Symphony’, maybe (if I had the energy to laugh along a little) Saint-Saens‘ ‘Carnival of the Animals‘. But probably my favorite was to get my catharsis from my good friend Modest Mussorgsky in the form of ‘Pictures at an Exhibition‘ and especially the wonderfully histrionic ‘Night on Bald Mountain‘. In fact, the first LP I remember buying when I got to college and didn’t have access anymore to my parents’ collection was an album with ‘Pictures’ on it.

The hut on hen's legs, graphite drawing

Baba Yaga by moonlight, or in a darkened living room . . .

It’s obvious from the aforementioned, if it wasn’t in every way so before, that I’ve always had a fondness for the dramatic in music, whether it’s some fabulous ethnic dance-demanding stuff or my old friends the story-based symphonic pieces or Russian choral riches with the basses fine-tuned by some necessary quantity of good vodka (whether they drink it or I do doesn’t necessarily matter, I suppose). In any event, I was very pleased a couple of years ago when my good friend Alvin commissioned me to provide the “missing” illustrations for ‘Pictures at an Exhibition’ when he was premiering his wonderful new arrangement of it with slides of the original set of artworks by Viktor Hartmann that had inspired the piece in the first place.

On this note, I suggest you make all haste to your nearest music collection, library, or other source of great storytelling and refresh yourself with a plunge into Mussorgsky, the tale of Baba Yaga, Edgar Allan Poe’s delectably dark yarns, a nice trip through Dvorak’s comforting cloudburst, or if you have other storytime favorites in music, art or written form, go to them and immerse yourself in their magnificence yet again.

Of Course I’m Hungry

 

wineglasses and text

No matter the season, I'm always hungry . . .

Among my many obsessions, food and eating are nearly always close to the top of the list. There’s so much loveliness, so much wealth, so much potential in every bowl, leaf and cinnamon stick. And damned if there isn’t deliciousness galore.

I’m neither an expert chef nor foodie of the more serious and scientific sort, not historian or cultural anthropologist enough to delve into the deeper magic of the edible world. What I do have is tastebuds and cravings galore and a massive amount of respect for and joy in the simple and subtle pleasures of food, whether at the table or under the tree. It’s sometimes fun to experience the glorious and self-consciously over-the-top flights of culinary fancy concocted as tasting menus and elaborate kingly dishes. But truthfully, the potent magnetism of the whole event of eating or cooking itself is shaped so much by the company and the environment and the context of the moment that far less sophisticated fare is often far preferable and more soul-grabbing. Gold-leafed croquembouche or perfect Seckel pear or tuna salad on sourdough, it doesn’t matter. If the company and the ambiance are right, it’s as good as dining in the halls of the gods.

blackberries

Perfectly ripe for the moment

It’s why hospitality is a central tenet, even the central tenet, in so many cultures as well. To offer food and drink to a friend is a powerful gift. To offer them to a stranger is diplomacy and compassion, is the hopeful and gracious imperative of beings that want to bring others in the world into deeper community. To offer sustenance to an enemy is to be divinely brave and willing to risk everything for the sake of peace and kindness.

And to dine in peace, dine on sweet and delicious, savory and exquisite, marvelous and welcome meals of any kind–that’s a wonder not to be taken lightly. I’m quite happy to frolic in food without constantly wallowing in worship of it, but at bottom I still feel a certain frisson of that special quality with every crumb, every drop.

silver, salt-&-pepper, spoon

How to eat right isn't always obvious . . .

I’m also learning, as I get older, what I can and can’t eat in good health. Wheat seems to be, if not Nemesis, then at least not a good friend to my innards, and it’s obvious I should learn to love sugary stuff less enthusiastically than I have always done. So I’m working on the whole idea of how to veer away from those ruthless treats that tend to torture me without becoming too cantankerous about what I see as their loss. Mainly, I suppose, finding friendly substitutions to fill in any created blanks and to distract me from anything I might otherwise mourn as loss.

Given that there are so few things I don’t like to eat or drink, that shouldn’t be too awfully tough to do. As long as I don’t find my diet devolving for any reason to 100% blueberries and, oh boy, organ meats. I did say there’s little I dislike in gustatory terms, but I’ll just put those out there. Yes, I’m that person. But I’ve been known to eat both when the occasion required it, because the company and the occasion and what they mean will always still trump the little old tastebuds. And that’s what good taste really means to me.

Comforts

apple pie photo & poem

I have enough crust to start a pie factory!